Handloom in Orissa

The writings on the stones of Khandagiri Cave in Orissa suggest that the art of weaving was in Orissa before 600 B.C. Similarly some carving in the temples of Sonepur district (Baidyanath temple) indicates that weaving was in existence in the area during prior to 9th A.D. Besides weaving with cotton yarn, there was also weaving with Wild Silk (Tassar), Wool and the fibers from stem of the Lotus.

Orissa has also the history of exporting handloom fabrics to the Southeast Asian countries like Thailand, Java, Borneo and Sumatra (Last three are the islands in Indonesia) during pre-independence period in sea route. It is therefore also believed that the Handloom production in Orissa were concentrated along the bank of river Mahanadi and some other big rivers of Orissa.

Orissa had 1, 29,236 (1951), 1, 19, 005 (1987), and 92,869, (1996) number looms as per the handloom census figure, which shows a continuous decline in the loom position. Similarly 4.15 lakhs of weavers population were in 1987. Western Orissa contributes about 55% of the total weavers in the State. 85% of the weavers have single loom.

Handlooms production in Orissa has also a lot of diversity which mainly includes tribal production of Kotpad area on vegetable colours, tie-dye / extra warp weft design on silk and cotton of Sonepur, extra warp and weft design of Jagatsinghpur, Tassar of Gopalpur, Makidia, silk of Berhampur, famous Khandua of Nuapatna and famous tie and dye of Bargarh. The products include mainly Saree (71%), dress material, tassar thans, furnishing, lungi and napkins etc.

In Orissa the tie and dye technique (IKAT) are spread almost all over the state, mainly centred in Sonepur-Bolangir-Bargarh, Sambalpur district and parts of Sundargarh district, in Western parts, Cuttack district in eastern part whereas Kalahandi-Nuapada district in Southern parts of the state.

The Ikat of Orissa has a wide range of flowers, fish, animals, God and Goddesses etc., as their motifs where as the Ikat of other states have geometrical and bold patterns as their motifs. The weavers of Orissa have the high skill to produce tie and dye fabrics with sharp and intricate designs. These weavers have inherited these techniques from their ancestors. Each weaver of the trade has a creative mind and with the flow of time has diversified the designs and products to suit the present market demand.

 

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