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The process of weaving involves a number of activities like
warping, sizing, winding, dyeing, preparation of Bandha etc. Some of the
important processes are discussed below.
Warping
The process for preparation of yarn from hank form to make warp is called
Warping.
The hank yarns are first transferred to Natai (a traditional winding device), and then it is wound around the warping frame in relation to the
length of the warp. The non-weaving members of the family mostly ladies,
normally perform this activity.
Preparation of Bandha
(Tie-Dye)
Before the yarn is tied as per the design, the white yarn is straightened by the
help of a wooden frame named Kamada. Prior to this, the yarn is warped
according to the desired length. The ends are set separately in portions known
as Ganthis (group of threads). Now the Ganthis are tied as per the design and
whole of the tied/untied yarns known as Chhanda are dipped in to the colour
bath. The colour thus penetrates in to the untied portion. Subsequently
the coloured portions are tied and the previously tied portions are untied to
dye with a different colour, as the design requires. Such process of Tieing &
Dyeing is repeated till the Chhanda gets it’s Bandha design. After dyeing is
completed, the Chhanda are completely dried, all tied portions are untied and
straightened to make it ready for weaving.
Preparation of Weft
Weft yarns are tied and dyed to facilitate a prominent boarder. In such process
the hank yarns are transferred to Natai and then wounded on a device locally
known as Badhi Pura as per the width of the saree to be woven. Then
the boarder portion is tied and dyed as per the width of the boarder followed
with pirn winding
Sizing
Sizing is done to strengthen the warp yarn and make little stiffer so as to
withstand the beating of the reed during the weaving process. It also gives the
fabric an even weaving and sound look. Sizing is done only for cotton yarn by
using the residue after rice preparation called Mud in local language by the
help of a sizing brush locally termed as Kunchi. The sizing is normally done
in free space nearer to the weaver cottage in the village.
Preparation of loom: Preparation of loom is broadly classified in to the
following categories of work.
Drafting
The process of passing the warp yarn through the heald of the loom as per the
design is known as drafting. This helps to keep the warp yarn in parallel form
over the width of the loom & in locating a broken yarn during the process of
weaving.
Denting
In this process warp yarns are passed through the reeds and the healds.
The warp threads are to be joined with the old warp threads with a local method
of twisting by hands.
Setting up of Dobby
Sometimes in order to put extra warps in the boarder to weave a design an
attachment called Dobby is fitted to the loom. This also helps in changing the
border design easily and frequently there by also helps in increasing the
productivity. Generally 4 to 12 shaft dobbies are used in the cluster area for
the purpose.
Weaving
After completion of all the above processes, the weaving process gets started.
The skilled weaver of the family performs this process. The looms being used in
the cluster area are mainly traditional pit looms with throw / fly shuttle
technique. During weaving of a tie-dye fabric the weft yarns are usually set on
the fall of the fabric after each beating. This is an essential and important
feature.
Analysis of
Production Cycle
In the cluster normally two numbers of sarees are woven in a single production
cycle. The following table illustrates duration of the individual intermediary
process and persons engaged for the same.
Production Cycle
System
(For 2 pcs -11 mtrs)
|
|
Total Process |
Weaving of Fine
Cotton variety |
Weaving of Coarse
Cotton variety |
|
i)
|
Warping (Tani pura by
females)
|
1 Day (8-10 hrs) for 2 pc i.e. 11 mts |
1 Day (8-10 hrs) for 2 pc i.e. 11 mts) |
|
ii)
|
Preparation of Tie an
Dye (2 persons)
|
4 Days |
2 Days |
|
iii)
|
Winding (By females &
children)
|
1 Day (Casually done by females & children)
|
1 Day (Casually done by females & children) |
|
iv)
|
Sizing (by 2 male
persons) (Street Sizing method)
|
4 - 5 hrs |
4 - 5 hrs. |
|
v)
|
Preparation of looms
|
3 - 4 hrs.
|
2 - 3 hrs
|
|
vi)
|
Weaving
|
7 Days
|
3 Days
|
|