The process of weaving

The process of weaving involves a number of activities like warping, sizing, winding, dyeing, preparation of Bandha etc. Some of the important processes are discussed below.

 

Warping
The process for preparation of yarn from hank form to make warp is called Warping. The hank yarns are first transferred to Natai (a traditional winding device), and then it is wound around the warping frame  in relation to the length of the warp. The non-weaving members of the family mostly ladies, normally perform this activity.

 

Preparation of Bandha (Tie-Dye)
Before the yarn is tied as per the design, the white yarn is straightened by the help of a wooden frame named Kamada. Prior to this, the yarn is warped according to the desired length. The ends are set separately in portions known as Ganthis (group of threads). Now the Ganthis are tied as per the design and whole of the tied/untied yarns known as Chhanda are dipped in to the colour bath. The colour thus penetrates in to the untied portion. Subsequently the coloured portions are tied and the previously tied portions are untied to dye with a different colour, as the design requires. Such process of Tieing & Dyeing is repeated till the Chhanda gets it’s Bandha design. After dyeing is completed, the Chhanda are completely dried, all tied portions are untied and straightened to make it ready for weaving.

 

Preparation of Weft
Weft yarns are tied and dyed to facilitate a prominent boarder. In such process the hank yarns are transferred to Natai and then wounded on a device locally known as Badhi Pura as per the width of the saree to be woven. Then the boarder portion is tied and dyed as per the width of the boarder followed with pirn winding

Sizing
Sizing is done to strengthen the warp yarn and make little stiffer so as to withstand the beating of the reed during the weaving process. It also gives the fabric an even weaving and sound look. Sizing is done only for cotton yarn by using the residue after rice preparation called Mud in local language by the help of a sizing brush locally termed as Kunchi. The sizing is normally done in free space nearer to the weaver cottage in the village.
Preparation of loom: Preparation of loom is broadly classified in to the following categories of work.

 

Drafting
The process of passing the warp yarn through the heald of the loom as per the design is known as drafting. This helps to keep the warp yarn in parallel form over the width of the loom & in locating a broken yarn during the process of weaving.

 

Denting
In this process warp yarns are passed through the reeds and the healds. The warp threads are to be joined with the old warp threads with a local method of twisting by hands.

 

Setting up of Dobby
Sometimes in order to put extra warps in the boarder to weave a design an attachment called Dobby is fitted to the loom. This also helps in changing the border design easily and frequently there by also helps in increasing the productivity. Generally 4 to 12 shaft dobbies are used in the cluster area for the purpose.

 

Weaving
After completion of all the above processes, the weaving process gets started. The skilled weaver of the family performs this process. The looms being used in the cluster area are mainly traditional pit looms with throw / fly shuttle technique. During weaving of a tie-dye fabric the weft yarns are usually set on the fall of the fabric after each beating. This is an essential and important feature.

 

Analysis of Production Cycle

In the cluster normally two numbers of sarees are woven in a single production cycle. The following table illustrates duration of the individual intermediary process and persons engaged for the same.

 

Production Cycle System (For 2 pcs -11 mtrs)

 

Total Process

Weaving of Fine Cotton variety

Weaving of Coarse Cotton variety

 i)

 Warping (Tani pura by females)

1 Day (8-10 hrs) for 2 pc i.e. 11 mts

1 Day (8-10 hrs) for 2 pc i.e. 11 mts)

 ii)

 Preparation of Tie an Dye (2 persons)

4 Days

2 Days

 iii)

 Winding (By females & children)

 1 Day (Casually done by females & children)

1 Day (Casually done by females & children)

 iv)

 Sizing (by 2 male persons) (Street Sizing method)

4 - 5 hrs

4 - 5 hrs.

 v)

 Preparation of looms

 3 - 4 hrs.

 2 - 3 hrs

 vi)

 Weaving

 7 Days

 3 Days

 

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